Amalfi is small enough to walk end to end in a few minutes and generous enough to fill a whole day. Here is how we would spend it.
Morning: lemons and coffee
Start in the main square beneath the Duomo, with a coffee and a lemon pastry at a table in the shade. Climb the cathedral steps before the tour groups arrive.
Midday: the valley of the mills
Walk uphill through the Valle dei Mulini, where Amalfi once made paper that was traded across the Mediterranean. There is a small museum in an old mill and the stream makes the shade a few degrees cooler.
Afternoon: a slow lunch and a swim
Fresh anchovies, handmade scialatielli pasta and anything with lemon. Afterwards, find a spot on the rocks or take the short walk to the neighbouring village of Atrani.
Evening: the best part
Wander the narrow streets as the heat lifts, and finish with a scoop of something cold. We are open until midnight for exactly this reason.
